Warmer weather in Korea has diners spilling into the streets for 'yajang'
2026.04.17 07:01
Along a road above Seongbuk Stream in central Seoul, cherry blossom trees — now slightly past their peak — still draw passersby for photos. But the large crowds lining the sidewalk aren't here just for the seasonal flowers.
Across the street, the real attraction reveals itself.
Smoke curls into the spring air as diners flip samgyeopsal (pork belly) on hot grills atop red plastic tables set just outside restaurant doors. Some are digging into bubbling stews or fried dishes, while all around, glasses clink as groups down soju, beer and highballs.
With warmer air has come yajang season — Korea's seasonal ritual of dining outdoors. Yajang roughly refers to bars or eateries that set up temporary tables outdoors and serve food and drinks, turning streets into open-air dining spaces.
In recent weeks, Seongbuk Stream near Hansung University Station has become one of the city's hottest yajang destinations. Dubbed "cherry blossom yajang," the area went viral online, with scenes of diners grilling meat beneath blooming trees.
Even as the blossoms began to fall on Saturday during a visit to the area, the crowds showed little sign of thinning. By early evening, the outdoor seating at nearly every restaurant along the stretch was packed.
At many spots, the waitlist easily exceeded 50 groups, and dining was limited to 90 minutes.
"It wasn't like this last year," said a staff member at one samgyeopsal yajang restaurant. At the height of the cherry blossom season in early April this year, some waitlists topped 300 groups. "Last weekend, people were waiting up to four hours just to sit outside."
From plastic chairs to a citywide trend
As temperatures rise, yajang feels almost instinctive. In the cool evening breeze, with nature as a backdrop and space for conversation, meals take on a charm that indoor dining rarely matches.
Unlike Europe’s terrace culture, where diners linger over coffee or meals, Korean yajang is more hands-on. Meat sizzles on the grill and gopchang (pork intestines) bubbles over flame, though simpler options like fried chicken are also common.
Yajang also often doubles as an after-dinner stop, a more casual setting for drinks. Being outdoors, it feels less confined, allowing groups to relax and talk more freely.
And there is little that feels formal about it. No polished terraces or carefully plated dishes, just bright red plastic chairs, folding tables and disposable chopsticks and cups. Drinks — alcoholic or not — tie the table together as cups clink in cheers.
That raw, communal energy has helped yajang evolve into one of Korea's most popular dining trends — one that increasingly draws international visitors as well.
But it was not always a cool night out.
As Korea began industrializing in the 1960s, a growing work force fueled demand for places to unwind over drinks, gradually transforming the simple snack stalls that once lined the streets into what are now yajang spots.
Euljiro’s Nogari Alley captures that history well. With a storied past, the area was once filled with small, modest shacks that served tired workers from the printing shops that dominated the neighborhood for decades. The legacy continues today, with longstanding restaurants like Manseon Hof.
But as demand grows, so do the formats, expanding into new spaces across the city.
At Dalmaji Square Barbecue in Euljiro, central Seoul, tucked between buildings, a narrow alley opens into a wide courtyard filled with nearly 100 tables — more reminiscent of a German beer festival than a typical Korean street setup. By 3:30 p.m. on Sunday, groups were already queuing for the 4 p.m. opening, with the waitlist exceeding 350 "teams," as they're referred to in Korean.
"It feels like you're connecting with everyone here," said Kim Hyun-tae, who secured one of the first tables. "And somehow the beer tastes better here."
Other spots are taking yajang to new heights, literally. At the Seoul Express Bus Terminal in Seocho District, diners head to the 10th floor to grill meat under open skies. Despite the rooftop setting, the vibe remains unmistakably yajang, with rows of temporary tables filling the space. By the evening on April 10, the tables are already full.
Seosulla-gil in Jongno District, meanwhile, offers a quieter take, with tables set along the historic city wall. This area developed more organically.
Although Euljiro’s Nogari Alley has quieted in recent years — in part due to a 2022 redevelopment plan that banned outdoor operations — the atmosphere continues on top. At the rooftop of Manseon Hof, dozens of tables fill quickly, with open-air seating and big screens playing music videos, creating a lively night-out mood.
A beloved culture, but with growing tension
But as yajang spreads, so do the challenges.
At Seongbuk Stream, the influx of visitors has turned sidewalks and streets into crowded, often chaotic spaces. Tables spill into traffic lanes, forcing cars to inch past, while pedestrians weave through lines of people waiting for seats.
"It's a bit disappointing," said Kim Jae-won, a longtime resident of Seongbuk District who regularly visits the stream. "It wasn't like this before. I can't relax like I used to."
Most importantly, many yajang setups operate in a legal gray area — or outright illegally. Restaurants are technically not allowed to serve food outside their registered premises without permission from local governments based on the Food Sanitation Act.
At Seongbuk Stream, such permits have also not been granted, meaning yajang operations are not permitted. In early April, the local government fielded around five reports a day of pedestrian inconvenience caused by outdoor tables near Seongbuk Stream, according to a Seongbuk District official.
District officials have since stepped up inspections, conducting weekly crackdowns and removing illegally placed items left on roads overnight. Still, enforcement remains light. While repeated violations could lead to suspension or closure, most cases end with warnings as the district focuses on guidance over strict enforcement, citing the prolonged economic slowdown and the need to sustain local commercial districts and small business livelihoods.
"We are prioritizing on-site guidance and inspections, and encouraging voluntary compliance through cooperation with business owners, requiring immediate correction of minor violations," a Seongbuk District official said. "No administrative penalties have been issued since late March."
Business owners are also frustrated, as they count on the seasonal rush, including yajang, to boost sales in a sluggish economy, but repeated complaints limit how fully they can operate.
"There used to be more outdoor tables, even across the street," said one owner of a restaurant along Seongbuk Stream. "But after someone reported us, we had to remove them."
Some experts suggest that rather than indiscriminately strengthening crackdowns, a better approach would be to legalize and manage yajang within a regulatory framework.
Jongno District revised its ordinance in December 2023 to allow street-side dining on parts of Donhwamun-ro 11-gil. Under the rules, businesses are allowed to place a single row of tables in front of their shops.
"Yajang has become a form of leisure, even a cultural activity for foreigners," said Seo Jong-guk, an emeritus professor of urban policy and administration at Incheon National University. "It would be better to implement a formal system, while also fostering a more mature culture through cooperation among residents, merchants and those who enjoy it."
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